My body is by far the oldest and whitest on
Playa Blanca. Conscious of the bulges that my bathing suit can’t hide, I
stretch out on a chaise longue, anxious for the Caribbean sun to turn me an
immediate toasty brown. But the heat is overwhelming, and I sit up to consider
an ocean dip.
A tanned, wiry
woman in a short twirling skirt, a neon orange top, and a blue plastic beach
pail in her hand approaches me.
“You look like
you need to relax,” she says.
Before I know
it, her strong hands begin rubbing my shoulders.
“No, no,
gracias,” I say, but to no avail.
“Only twenty
pesos for the back. Whole body is sixty.” She flashes a credential hanging on a
cord from her neck. “Took a course. Have official approval to work here.”
“No. No,” I
repeat, but she keeps on rubbing. Her strong fingers work down my back. It
feels heavenly.
“See?” she says.
My friend, who
lives nearby in Cartagena, comes up and haggles over the price. They agree on
fifty for the whole body. I succumb.
She directs me
to lie face down. As I turn my stiff body over, I notice that several sun
bathers on chaise longues behind me observe with keen interest. My masseuse then
squirts an oily liquid onto my back.
“Qué
es eso? What’s that? I ask.
“Aloe Vera.”
Aloe Vera with
what else? I wonder.
She eases my
bathing suit straps off my shoulders to better reach every possible surface.
“How old are
you?” she asks, her hands nearing my buttocks. No room for vanity here.
“Seventy-six. And you?”
“Forty-five. Do
you have grandchildren?”
"Yes, I tell her. Five. “And you?”
“Fourteen.”
“Oh! You must have been a child bride!”
She laughs. “Had
my first experience at twelve.”
I wonder if it
was consensual, but say nothing.
She moves on to
the backs of my legs, rubbing in her oil along with rebel grains of sand. She
devotes special (painful) attention to my sore foot. Then she slips up my suit
straps, directs me to turn over and aims the contents of her plastic bottle
onto chest, arms and legs.
I can’t believe this! Here I am in the hands of a
masseuse on a Caribbean beach. How long will she continue? It must be close to
an hour. Who cares? Just enjoy the moment, girl.
She finishes up
with my feet.
“Oh, that was
wonderful!” I say.
“See. I told
you.”
“You’re quite
the saleswoman. Sneaky! Laying your hands on my shoulders. Wouldn’t take no for
an answer. What’s your name?”
“Elizabeth.”
“Come over her
in the shade, Elizabeth, and let me get a photo of you.”
“And one of us
together,” I say and we pose with our arms around each other. Beach buddies.
Now, into the
water to wash off that mystery oil.
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